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Mountaineering Rules
- Nepal
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Unlike trekking peak
climbing in Nepal, the mountain peaks ranging from
7000 meters and above 8000 meters are considered
as major climbing peaks including Mt. Everest, Mt. Makalu and other high peaks. Climbing expedition to
such peaks require long-term of pre-arrangement and
planning using handling agent as medium (such as a
trekking agency or organization related to
mountaineering. For further clarifications, and
applicable royalties, kindly refer particulars: |
|
S.No |
Name of the
peak |
Altitude-mt |
Location |
Administrative
Zone |
|
01 |
Mt. Everest |
8,848 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
|
02 |
Kanchenjunga |
8,586 |
Kanchenjunga |
Mechi |
|
03 |
Lhotse |
8,516 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
|
04 |
Ylaung Khang |
8,505 |
Kanchenjunga |
Mechi |
|
05 |
Kanchenjunga |
8,476 |
Kanchenjunga |
Mechi |
|
07 |
Makalu |
8,463 |
Mahalangur |
Koshi |
|
08 |
Lhotse Shar |
8,400 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
|
09 |
Cho Oyu |
8,201 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
|
10 |
Dhaulagiri I |
8,167 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
|
11 |
Manaslu |
8,163 |
Mansiri |
Gandaki |
|
12 |
Annapurna I |
8,091 |
Gandaki |
Gandaki |
|
Peaks between 7000
m. to 8000 m. |
|
Peaks |
Heights -M |
Location |
Administrative Zone |
|
Gyachung Khang |
7,952 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
|
Annapurna II |
7,937 |
Gandaki |
Gandaki |
|
Kangbachen |
7,903 |
Kanchenjunga/Mechi |
Mechi |
|
Himalchuli East |
7,893 |
Mansiri/Gorkha |
Gandaki |
|
Peak 29 Dakura |
7,871 |
Mansiri |
Gandaki |
|
Nuptse |
7,885 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
|
Dhaulagiri II |
7,751 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
|
Ngojumba Kang |
7,743 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
|
Dhaulagiri III |
7,715 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
|
Kumbhakarna |
7,710 |
Kanchenjunga |
Mechi |
|
Makalu II |
7,668 |
Mahalangur |
Koshi |
|
Dhaulagiri IV |
7,661 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
|
Varaha Shikhar |
7,647 |
Annapurna |
Dhaulagiri |
|
Dhaulagiri V |
7,618 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
|
Shantishikhar |
7,591 |
Mahalangur |
Sagarmatha |
|
Annapurna III |
7,556 |
Annapurna |
Gandaki |
|
Himalchuli West |
7,540 |
Mansiri |
Gandaki |
|
Annapurna VI |
7,520 |
Annapurna |
Gandaki |
|
Khang Sar Kang |
7,485 |
Annapurna |
Gandaki |
|
Jongsang Peak |
7,483 |
Janak |
Mechi |
|
Shartse |
7,459 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
|
Gangapuran |
7,455 |
Annapurna |
Gandaki |
|
Gaesh I(
Yangrima) |
7,429 |
Dhading |
Bagmati |
|
Himalchuli
North |
7,371 |
Mansiri |
Gandaki |
|
Churen |
7,371 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
|
Kirat Chuli |
7,365 |
Kanchenjunga |
Mechi |
|
Chamlang |
7,319 |
Mahalangur |
Sagarmatha |
|
Dhaulagiri VI |
7,268 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
|
Putha Himchuli |
7,246 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
|
Langtang
Lirung |
7,234 |
Langtang |
Bagmati |
|
How to
obtain a permit ?- Completed Application
- Endorsement of the National Alpine Club. (if there
is no Alpine Club, endorsement of the Government of
your side)
- Short bio-data of all members of the expedition
(with passport size photograph)
- Map and/ or photograph of the mountain including
climbing route.
- Approach route map.
- Submit the application through your handling agent
in Nepal.
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Preparing In
Nepal for Expedition: Invoices and airway bill
or bill of lading (four copies each) have to be
submitted to the Ministry of Tourism for import
license and customs clearance for the import of
expedition foods and equipment to Nepal. CIF
Katmandu value is to be clearly mentioned in the
invoice. |
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If you planning to use communication devices:
As Walkie-talkies, Transceiver (Wireless) sets and
other communication equipment are controlled
articles in Nepal. Please declare these articles in
the customs office (at entry point) that you wish to
bring into Nepal for use during climbing period.
Such equipments have to be collected from the
customs office by receiving permission letter from
the Ministry of communication. For the clearance of
the equipment completed application form and invoice
with catalogue or specifications (four copies each)
should be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism and
to your handling agent in Nepal. |
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Filming or Documentary: Permission is required
for filming or documentary. The Ministry of
Communication must be contacted any time for queries
about filming in Nepal. Please let us know we will
take care of every thing here in Nepal. |
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The Royalty and size of the Expedition team:
More than one team maybe permitted to climb Mt.
Everest by each separate route in one season. A
royalty of US $ 50,000 has been fixed for Mt.
Everest for a team consisting of 5 members. The team
may include 5 more members provided if it pays extra
US $ 10,000 for each additional member. The royalty
includes trekking fee of the team members. The team
members will be granted three months visas.
Additional US $ 20,000 will have to be paid the team
willing to scale Mt. Everest by normal South East
Ridge route. |
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Note: in all regions including Khumbu, an
expedition team can have up to 5 members for the
minimum royalty, and 5 more members for the
additional royalty. |
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The team already permitted to scale Mt. Everest will
have to pay US $ 10,000 if it intends to change the
ascent route. It will have to pay additional US $
20,000 if it intends to change the ascent route to
normal South East Ridge route. For peak other than
Mt. Everest, the team will have to pay additional
25% of the royalty in US $ to change the ascent
route. |
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Expedition team must complete all necessary
administrative formalities and procedures in order
to send back the garbage of the expedition team to
their respective countries, after the completion of
the expedition. Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation
will take necessary monetary deposit from them,
which will be refunded after the dispatch of garbage
from Nepal. |
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Garbage Management: "Effective from 1992"
the Ministry of Tourism has fixed the price of the
deposit for the management of Garbage's by each
mountaineering team who tries to climb any peak in
Khumbu region are as follows:
-Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) US $ 4,000 or equivalent
in Nepalese currency.
-Other peaks above 8000 meter US $ 3000 or
equivalent in Nepalese currency.
-All peaks less than 8000 meters US $ 2000 or
equivalent in Nepalese currency. |
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Royalties of
the mountain expedition (In U.S. Dollar) |
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* Mt. Everest
US $50,000 for team of to5 and US $10 00 for
each additional members/ maximum size is 10
on each team. |
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* Peaks above
8000 meter (except Mt. Everest) US $10,000
for team of up to7 and US $1500 for each
additional members/ maximum size is 12 on
each team. |
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* Peaks of 7501
- 8000m./ US $4,000 for team up to 7 and for
each additional US $500.00 & maximum size is
12 members |
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* Peaks of 7001
- 7500m/.US $3,000 for team up to 7 and for
each additional US $400.00 & maximum size
is 12 members |
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* Peaks of 6501
- 7000m/.US $2,000 for team up to 7 and for
each additional US $300.00 & maximum size is
12 members |
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