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Mountaineering Rules - Nepal


Unlike trekking peak climbing in Nepal, the mountain peaks ranging from 7000 meters  and above 8000 meters are considered as major climbing peaks including Mt. Everest, Mt. Makalu and other high peaks. Climbing expedition to such peaks require long-term of pre-arrangement and  planning using handling agent as medium (such as a trekking agency or organization related to mountaineering. For further clarifications, and applicable royalties, kindly refer particulars:


Peaks above 8000 m.

S.No

Name of the peak

Altitude-mt

Location

Administrative Zone

01

Mt. Everest

8,848

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

02

Kanchenjunga

8,586

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

03

Lhotse

8,516

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

04

Ylaung Khang

8,505

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

05

Kanchenjunga

8,476

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

07

Makalu

8,463

Mahalangur

Koshi

08

Lhotse Shar

8,400

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

09

Cho Oyu

8,201

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

10

Dhaulagiri I

8,167

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

11

Manaslu

8,163

Mansiri

Gandaki

12

Annapurna I

8,091

Gandaki

Gandaki

Peaks between 7000 m. to 8000 m.

Peaks

Heights -M

Location

Administrative Zone

Gyachung Khang

7,952

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Annapurna II

7,937

Gandaki

Gandaki

Kangbachen

7,903

Kanchenjunga/Mechi

Mechi

Himalchuli East

7,893

Mansiri/Gorkha

Gandaki

Peak 29 Dakura

7,871

Mansiri

Gandaki

Nuptse

7,885

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Dhaulagiri II

7,751

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Ngojumba Kang

7,743

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Dhaulagiri III

7,715

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Kumbhakarna

7,710

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

Makalu II

7,668

Mahalangur

Koshi

Dhaulagiri IV

7,661

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Varaha Shikhar

7,647

Annapurna

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri V

7,618

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Shantishikhar

7,591

Mahalangur

Sagarmatha

Annapurna III

7,556

Annapurna

Gandaki

Himalchuli West

7,540

Mansiri

Gandaki

Annapurna VI

7,520

Annapurna

Gandaki

Khang Sar Kang

7,485

Annapurna

Gandaki

Jongsang Peak

7,483

Janak

Mechi

Shartse

7,459

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Gangapuran

7,455

Annapurna

Gandaki

Gaesh I( Yangrima)

7,429

Dhading

Bagmati

Himalchuli North

7,371

Mansiri

Gandaki

Churen

7,371

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Kirat Chuli

7,365

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

Chamlang

7,319

Mahalangur

Sagarmatha

Dhaulagiri VI

7,268

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Putha Himchuli

7,246

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Langtang Lirung 

7,234

Langtang

Bagmati

How to obtain a permit ?- Completed Application
- Endorsement of the National Alpine Club. (if there is no Alpine Club, endorsement of the  Government of your side)
- Short bio-data  of all members of the expedition (with passport size photograph)
- Map and/ or photograph of the mountain including climbing route.
- Approach route map.
- Submit the application through your handling agent in Nepal.

Preparing  In Nepal for Expedition: Invoices and airway bill or bill of lading (four copies each) have to be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism for import license and customs clearance for the import of expedition foods and equipment to Nepal. CIF Katmandu value is to be clearly mentioned in the invoice.

If you planning to use communication devices:  As Walkie-talkies, Transceiver (Wireless) sets and other communication equipment are controlled articles in Nepal. Please declare these articles in the customs office (at entry point) that you wish to bring into Nepal for use during climbing period. Such equipments have to be collected from the customs office by receiving permission letter from the Ministry of communication. For the clearance of the equipment completed application form and invoice with catalogue or specifications (four copies each) should be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism and to your handling agent in Nepal.

Filming or Documentary: Permission is required for filming or documentary. The Ministry of Communication must be contacted any time for queries about filming in Nepal. Please let us know we will take care of every thing here in Nepal.

The Royalty and size of the Expedition team: More than one team maybe permitted to climb Mt. Everest by each separate route in one season. A royalty of US $ 50,000 has been fixed for Mt. Everest for a team consisting of 5 members. The team may include 5 more members provided if it pays extra US $ 10,000 for each additional member. The royalty includes trekking fee of the team members. The team members will be granted three months visas. Additional US $ 20,000 will have to be paid the team willing to scale Mt. Everest by normal South East Ridge route.

Note:  in all regions including Khumbu, an expedition team can have up to 5 members for the minimum royalty, and 5 more members for the additional royalty.

The team already permitted to scale Mt. Everest will have to pay US $ 10,000 if it intends to change the ascent route. It will have to pay additional US $ 20,000 if it intends to change the ascent route to normal South East Ridge route. For peak other than Mt. Everest, the team will have to pay additional 25% of the royalty in US $ to change the ascent route.

Expedition team must complete all necessary administrative formalities and procedures in order to send back the garbage of the expedition team to their respective countries, after the completion of the expedition. Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from them, which will be refunded after the dispatch of garbage from Nepal.

Garbage Management:  "Effective from 1992" the Ministry of Tourism has fixed the price of the deposit for the management of Garbage's by each mountaineering team who tries to climb any peak in Khumbu region are as follows:
-Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) US $ 4,000 or equivalent in Nepalese currency.
-Other peaks above 8000 meter US $ 3000 or equivalent in Nepalese currency.
-All peaks less than 8000 meters US $ 2000 or equivalent in Nepalese currency.

Royalties of the mountain expedition (In U.S. Dollar)

* Mt. Everest US $50,000 for team of to5 and US $10 00 for each additional members/ maximum size is 10 on each team.

* Peaks above 8000 meter (except Mt. Everest) US $10,000 for team of up to7 and US $1500 for each additional members/ maximum size is 12 on each team.

* Peaks of 7501 - 8000m./ US $4,000 for team up to 7 and for each additional US $500.00 & maximum size is 12 members

* Peaks of 7001 - 7500m/.US $3,000 for team up to 7 and for each additional  US $400.00 & maximum size is 12 members

* Peaks of 6501 - 7000m/.US $2,000 for team up to 7 and for each additional US $300.00 & maximum size is 12 members


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