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Mountaineering Expedition
- Nepal
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Mt.
Everest (8848m): The first serious attempt to climb
Mt. Everest (Sagarmatha) was made in 1922. The
Expedition, as did all attempts until 1950, climbed the
mountain from the north after a long approach march
across the plains of Tiber. The highest point reached
was 8320m. An avalanche killed seven Sherpas below the
North Col. In 1924 another team of British gentlemen in
their tweed suits set off to climb Everest. They didn't
have crampons and had a furious argument about whether
the use of oxygen was "sporting". On this Expedition
George Mallory and Andrew Irvine climbed high on the
mountain and never returned back. Nobody has ever found
out whether they reached the top before they perished.
Many times, many groups has tried to ascend on the top
of Everest although nobody success on their aim. After
the second world war Tibet was closed, but Nepal had
begun to open its border. In 1950 Tilman made a
peripatetic trip all over Nepal and ascent of Kala
Pathar and Khumbu Ice fall. At that time Nepal allowed
only one Expedition team per year on Everest. In 1952
Swiss leader Raymond Lambert and Tenzing Norgey Sherpa
reached a hight of almost 8600m but the high wind and
cold drove them back from a point just above the South
Col. In 1953 a huge British Expedition led by John Hunt,
finally succeeded. Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgey
Sherpa reached the summit of Everest on 29th of May
1953. The golden era of history of Expedition has been
started to set and till 2000 more than 1300 courageous
climbers succeeded to step the top of Mt. Everest. But
unfortunately more than 300 peoples have been killed by
avalanche and deep crevasse. |
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Kanchanjunga (8598m): is the third-highest peak in
the world and the second highest in Nepal. It was first
ascend by a British team in 1956. The peak consists of
four summits. The west summit, Yalung Khang, is 8420 m
high and some people classify it as a separate 8000m
peak. By the end of 2000, around 200 people had climbed
Kanchanjunga. The Japanese took up the challenge and
mounted expeditions in 1967,1973 and 1974 during which
they climbed Yalung Khang. A German expedition climbed
Yalung Khang in 1975 and in 1977 and Indian army team
mounted the second successful expedition to the main
peak of Kanchanjunga. |
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Lhotse (8501m): was climbed by a Swiss expedition in
1956, its lower peak, Lhotse Shar, 8383m, is sometimes
considered a separate 8000m peak. Lhotse which means
"south peak", is part of the Everest massif, just to the
south of Everest. The primary route on Lhotse is via
Everest's South Col, but despite the activity on
Everest, by 1955 Lhotse was the highest unclimbed peak
in the world. And still Lhotse is still least climbing
activity of any 8000m peak in Nepal. The record in 2000
stood at just 83 climbers has stag their courage flag
over the Lhotse. |
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Makalu
(8463m): was first climbe by a French party in 1955.
By 1996, 128 climbers had reached the summit on 113
expeditions, 11 climbers have died in the attemps. The
peaks was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan
side by the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance. Hillary
and Shipton photographed Makalu during a side trip on
the 1951 Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and others his
colloquies approached the peak a year later after the
failure of their Cho Oyu Expedition. In the autumn of
1954 a French team attempted the peak. In the following
spring successful ascents were made by three team of
French climbers on successive days. The Japanese climbed
Makalu in 1970, another French team climbed it in 1971
and a Yugoslav expedition reached the summit in 1975.
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Dhaulagiri: In 1976 Spanish and Czechoslovakian
teams joined up near the summit. Dhaulagiri (8167m) was
first climbed by the Swiss in 1960. It is so challenging
to get a top even though around 300 climbers had success
to top. The climb followed a circuitous route around the
mountain from Tukche, over Dhampus Pass and French Col,
to approach the summit from the north east col. Tragedy
struck in 1969 when an avalanche swamp away seven
members of a American expedition on the east Dhaulagiri
glacier. The peak was climbed by the Japanese team in
1970 too. Manaslu (8156m) was first climbed in 1956 by a
Japanaese expedition. "Manas" means our inner soul and
same word that is the root of the name of the holy lake
Manasarovar near Mt. Kailash in Tibet. The famous
mountaineer Tilman and Jimmy Roberts, photographed
Manaslu during a trek in 1950, but the first real survey
of the peak was made by a Japanese expedition in 1952. A
Japanese team made the first serious attempt on the peak
from the Budhi Gandaki in 1953. When another team
followed in 1971 was also success to ascent the same
route. Cho Oyu (8153m) was first climbed by Austrian in
1954. It is about 30 km west of Everest at the head of
the Gokyo Valley. The Austrian lead from the north-west
ridge using a route through Tibet from the Nangpa La.
An Indian expedition made the second ascent in 1958 and
a German ski expedition made the third ascent in 1964.
Till this year more than 100 expeditions had been made
Cho-oyu and around 1000 climbers are stepped over the
peak. |
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Annapurna
(8091m): was first climbed by a French expedition
in 1950. There are four summits called Annapurna; the
entire massif forms a barrier on the northern side of
the Pokhara valley. The main summit of Annapurna is to
the west of the Annapurna sanctuary: Annapurna II is
above Chame about 24 km to the est. Fewer climbers have
reached the summit of Annapurna than any other 8000m
peak in Nepal. Around 100 climbers had reached the
summit by the end of this year. |
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