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Mountaineering
Expedition - Nepal
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Mountaineering in Nepal
is one of the most attraction and courageous
parts rather than high adventure trekking.
This beautiful tiny Himalayan kingdom is one
of the paradise that has meet anyone who
wish to conquer high mountains by their own
foot. This small kingdom is the land of
world's top most highest peaks including Mt.
Everest is majestic crowned to the north.
Eight of the world's 14 peaks over 8000m
including Mt.Everest (8850m), Makalu
(8463m), Lhotse (8516m), Cho Oyu (8201m),
Kanchenjunga (8586m), Annapurna (8091m),
Dhaulagiri (8167m), Manaslu (8163m) are only
located in Nepal. Mountaineering and
trekking in Nepal has relied heavily on the
progress and inspiration developed by
various expeditions to Everest. Mush of the
attraction of Nepal in the early days
resulted from the discovery that the highest
peak in the world lay within the forbidden
and isolated kingdom. |
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Mt. Everest (Sagarmatha): The first serious attempt to
climb Mt. Everest (8850m) was made in 1922. The
Expedition, as did all attempts until 1950, climbed
the mountain from the north after a long approach
march across the plains of Tiber. The highest point
reached was 8320m. An avalanche killed seven Sherpas
below the North Col. In 1924 another team of British
gentlemen in their tweed suits set off to climb
Everest. They didn't have crampons and had a furious
argument about whether the use of oxygen was
"sporting". On this Expedition George Mallory and
Andrew Irvine climbed high on the mountain and never
returned back. Nobody has ever found out whether
they reached the top before they perished. Many
times, many groups has tried to ascend on the top of
Everest although nobody success on their aim. After
the second world war Tibet was closed, but Nepal had
begun to open its border. In 1950 Tilman made a
peripatetic trip all over Nepal and ascent of Kala
Pathar and Khumbu Ice fall. At that time Nepal
allowed only one Expedition team per year on
Everest. In 1952 Swiss leader Raymond
Lambert and Tenzing Norgey Sherpa reached a hight of
almost 8600m but the high wind and cold drove them
back from a point just above the South Col. In 1953
a huge British Expedition led by John Hunt, finally
succeeded. Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgey
Sherpa reached the summit of Everest on 29th of May
1953. The golden era of history of Expedition has
been started to set and till 2000 more than 1300
courageous climbers succeeded to step the top of Mt.
Everest. But unfortunately more than 300 peoples
have been killed by avalanche and deep crevasse.
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Kanchanjunga (8598m): is the
third-highest peak in the world and the second
highest in Nepal. It was first ascend by a British
team in 1956. The peak consists of four summits. The
west summit, Yalung Khang, is 8420 m high and some
people classify it as a separate 8000m peak. By the
end of 2000, around 200 people had climbed
Kanchanjunga. The Japanese took up the
challenge and mounted expeditions in 1967,1973 and
1974 during which they climbed Yalung Khang. A
German expedition climbed Yalung Khang in 1975 and
in 1977 and Indian army team mounted the second
successful expedition to the main peak of
Kanchanjunga.
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Lhotse (8501m): was climbed by a
Swiss expedition in 1956, its lower peak, Lhotse
Shar, 8383m, is sometimes considered a separate
8000m peak. Lhotse which means "south peak", is part
of the Everest massif, just to the south of Everest.
The primary route on Lhotse is via Everest's South
Col, but despite the activity on Everest, by 1955
Lhotse was the highest unclimbed peak in the world.
And still Lhotse is still least climbing activity of
any 8000m peak in Nepal. The record in 2000 stood at
just 83 climbers has stag their courage flag over
the Lhotse.
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Makalu (8463m):
was first climbe
by a French party in 1955. By 1996, 128 climbers had
reached the summit on 113 expeditions, 11 climbers
have died in the attemps. The peaks was first mapped
and photographed from the Tibetan side by the 1921
British Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and Shipton
photographed Makalu during a side trip on the 1951
Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and others his
colloquies approached the peak a year later after
the failure of their Cho Oyu Expedition. In the
autumn of 1954 a French team attempted the peak. In
the following spring successful ascents were made by
three team of French climbers on successive days.
The Japanese climbed Makalu in 1970, another French
team climbed it in 1971 and a Yugoslav expedition
reached the summit in 1975.
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Dhaulagiri:
In 1976 Spanish and
Czechoslovakian teams joined up near the summit. Dhaulagiri (8167m) was first climbed by the Swiss in
1960. It is so challenging to get a top even though
around 300 climbers had success to top. The climb
followed a circuitous route around the mountain from
Tukche, over Dhampus Pass and French Col, to
approach the summit from the north east col. Tragedy
struck in 1969 when an avalanche swamp away seven
members of a American expedition on the east
Dhaulagiri glacier. The peak was climbed by the
Japanese team in 1970 too. Manaslu (8156m) was first
climbed in 1956 by a Japanaese expedition. "Manas"
means our inner soul and same word that is the root
of the name of the holy lake Manasarovar near
Mt. Kailash in Tibet. The famous mountaineer Tilman
and Jimmy Roberts, photographed Manaslu during a
trek in 1950, but the first real survey of the peak
was made by a Japanese expedition in 1952. A
Japanese team made the first serious attempt on the
peak from the Budhi Gandaki in 1953. When another
team followed in 1971 was also success to ascent the
same route. Cho Oyu (8153m) was first climbed by
Austrian in 1954. It is about 30 km west of Everest
at the head of the Gokyo Valley. The Austrian lead
from the north-west ridge using a route through
Tibet from the Nangpa La. An Indian expedition made
the second ascent in 1958 and a German ski
expedition made the third ascent in 1964. Till this
year more than 100 expeditions had been made Cho-oyu
and around 1000 climbers are stepped over the peak.
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Annapurna (8091m):
was first
climbed by a French expedition in 1950. There are
four summits called Annapurna; the entire massif
forms a barrier on the northern side of the Pokhara
valley. The main summit of Annapurna is to the west
of the Annapurna sanctuary: Annapurna II is above
Chame about 24 km to the est. Fewer climbers have
reached the summit of Annapurna than any other 8000m
peak in Nepal. Around 100 climbers had reached the
summit by the end of this year.
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