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Mountaineering Expedition - Nepal






 

Mountaineering in Nepal is one of the most attraction and courageous parts rather than high adventure trekking. This beautiful tiny Himalayan kingdom is one of the paradise that has meet anyone who wish to conquer high mountains by their own foot. This small kingdom is the land of world's top most highest peaks including Mt. Everest is majestic crowned to the north. Eight of the world's 14 peaks over 8000m including Mt.Everest (8850m), Makalu (8463m), Lhotse (8516m), Cho Oyu (8201m), Kanchenjunga (8586m), Annapurna (8091m), Dhaulagiri (8167m), Manaslu (8163m) are only located in Nepal. Mountaineering and trekking in Nepal has relied heavily on the progress and inspiration developed by various expeditions to Everest. Mush of the attraction of Nepal in the early days resulted from the discovery that the highest peak in the world lay within the forbidden and isolated kingdom.


Mt. Everest (Sagarmatha): The first serious attempt to climb Mt. Everest (8850m) was made in 1922. The Expedition, as did all attempts until 1950, climbed the mountain from the north after a long approach march across the plains of Tiber. The highest point reached was 8320m. An avalanche killed seven Sherpas below the North Col. In 1924 another team of British gentlemen in their tweed suits set off to climb Everest. They didn't have crampons and had a furious argument about whether the use of oxygen was "sporting". On this Expedition George Mallory and Andrew Irvine climbed high on the mountain and never returned back. Nobody has ever found out whether they reached the top before they perished. Many times, many groups has tried to ascend on the top of Everest although nobody success on their aim. After the second world war Tibet was closed, but Nepal had begun to open its border. In 1950 Tilman made a peripatetic trip all over Nepal and ascent of Kala Pathar and Khumbu Ice fall. At that time Nepal allowed only one Expedition team per year on Everest.  In 1952 Swiss leader Raymond Lambert and Tenzing Norgey Sherpa reached a hight of almost 8600m but the high wind and cold drove them back from a point just above the South Col. In 1953 a huge British Expedition led by John Hunt, finally succeeded. Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgey Sherpa reached the summit of Everest on 29th of May 1953. The golden era of history of Expedition has been started to set and till 2000 more than 1300 courageous climbers succeeded to step the top of Mt. Everest. But unfortunately more than 300 peoples have been killed by avalanche and deep crevasse.

Kanchanjunga (8598m): is the third-highest peak in the world and the second highest in Nepal. It was first ascend by a British team in 1956. The peak consists of four summits. The west summit, Yalung Khang, is 8420 m high and some people classify it as a separate 8000m peak. By the end of 2000, around 200 people had climbed Kanchanjunga. The Japanese took up the challenge and mounted expeditions in 1967,1973 and 1974 during which they climbed Yalung Khang. A German expedition climbed Yalung Khang in 1975 and in 1977 and Indian army team mounted the second successful expedition to the main peak of Kanchanjunga.

Lhotse (8501m): was climbed by a Swiss expedition in 1956, its lower peak, Lhotse Shar, 8383m, is sometimes considered a separate 8000m peak. Lhotse which means "south peak", is part of the Everest massif, just to the south of Everest. The primary route on Lhotse is via Everest's South Col, but despite the activity on Everest, by 1955 Lhotse was the highest unclimbed peak in the world. And still Lhotse is still least climbing activity of any 8000m peak in Nepal. The record in 2000 stood at just 83 climbers has stag their courage flag over the Lhotse.

Makalu (8463m): was first climbe by a French party in 1955. By 1996, 128 climbers had reached the summit on 113 expeditions, 11 climbers have died in the attemps. The peaks was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side by the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and Shipton photographed Makalu during a side trip on the 1951 Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and others his colloquies approached the peak a year later after the failure of their Cho Oyu Expedition. In the autumn of 1954 a French team attempted the peak. In the following spring successful ascents were made by three team of French climbers on successive days. The Japanese climbed Makalu in 1970, another French team climbed it in 1971 and a Yugoslav expedition reached the summit in 1975.

Dhaulagiri: In 1976 Spanish and Czechoslovakian teams joined up near the summit. Dhaulagiri (8167m) was first climbed by the Swiss in 1960. It is so challenging to get a top even though around 300 climbers had success to top. The climb followed a circuitous route around the mountain from Tukche, over Dhampus Pass and French Col, to approach the summit from the north east col. Tragedy struck in 1969 when an avalanche swamp away seven members of a American expedition on the east Dhaulagiri glacier. The peak was climbed by the Japanese team in 1970 too. Manaslu (8156m) was first climbed in 1956 by a Japanaese expedition. "Manas" means our inner soul and same word that is the root of the name of the holy lake Manasarovar near Mt. Kailash in Tibet. The famous mountaineer Tilman and Jimmy Roberts, photographed Manaslu during a trek in 1950, but the first real survey of the peak was made by a Japanese expedition in 1952. A Japanese team made the first serious attempt on the peak from the Budhi Gandaki in 1953. When another team followed in 1971 was also success to ascent the same route. Cho Oyu (8153m) was first climbed by Austrian in 1954. It is about 30 km west of Everest at the head of the Gokyo Valley. The Austrian lead from the north-west ridge using a route through Tibet from the Nangpa La.  An Indian expedition made the second ascent in 1958 and a German ski expedition made the third ascent in 1964. Till this year more than 100 expeditions had been made Cho-oyu and around 1000 climbers are stepped over the peak.

Annapurna (8091m):  was first climbed by a French expedition in 1950. There are four summits called Annapurna; the entire massif forms a barrier on the northern side of the Pokhara valley. The main summit of Annapurna is to the west of the Annapurna sanctuary: Annapurna II is above Chame about 24 km to the est. Fewer climbers have reached the summit of Annapurna than any other 8000m peak in Nepal. Around 100 climbers had reached the summit by the end of this year.


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